The Travelling Coeliac Environmentalist: Sapa has a Fansipan Mountain but Hanoi is the Motorcycle City

It took a 12 hour overnight train to Hanoi, several hours enjoying the ambience, food and street view of the second floor of a nearby vegan restaurant (The Veg), and then a 6 hour capsule bus ride to get to Sapa, but it was worth the trip. Again proving how varied and delightful is the scenery of Vietnam, Sapa was cool, green, wet and high (about 1,500m). Surrounded by mountains, tribes and rice fields it could arguably be called the hiking capital of Vietnam.

Sapa Lake

We settled into the Paris Boutique Hotel with glorious views of the Sapa Lake, having been upgraded to the top floor due to a lack of visitors at this time of year. It was a luxurious room, we were well looked after and it was only about $35 AU per night if memory serves me correctly, one of our more expensive stays.

Town space for activities

We spent a large portion of time here (day and night) exploring the town by walking randomly. Taking in the community atmosphere with the well used public spaces made available, and the marvellous scenery from all of the different vantage spots. Not easy considering this is not a flat town. Several day trips took us into the more mountainous regions.

Dancing in the park

Fansipan Mountain from the edge of town

Ham Rong Mountain

Day one was a hike through Ham Rong Mountain, walking distance from the town and boasting amazing gardens full of sculptures, lakes and flowers, culminating at an altitude of 1,800m on a platform with panoramic views around the town and surrounding countryside.

Day two was a cable car ride up Vietnam's highest point, the peak of Fansipan Mountain. This was not any normal cable car, why do things by half, but the longest non-stop 3 roped cable car in the world at 6,295m. Not content to stop there it also had the highest elevation change of a 3 roped cable car in the world, taking us up a further 1,410m. The ride was beyond scenic taking us over picturesque rice paddies that are the trademark of most photos on websites about Sapa. The adventure continues with a further train ride to the peak. The top was COLD so make sure you come prepared no matter what the weather down below is and you will be rewarded with amazing breathtaking views whenever those pesky clouds open up and reveal the hidden treasure beneath. We spent a few hours here as we struggled to tear ourselves away from the stunning views.

Hanoi

Once we left Sapa we went back to Hanoi for a day before a tour out to Ha Long Bay, but I am going to break with tradition and discuss our time at Hanoi now so that third and second last locations can share the final chapter on Vietnam. You will understand why when you read it.

Playing Mahjong at a Pagoda

Hanoi, the capital city of Vietnam, can arguably be called the motorcycle city with its over 4 million plus motorbikes sloshing around the streets like a rushing river. Crossing the street is an adventure sport. It also has a fascinating mix of old and new with many old districts and centuries old architecture, lovely parks and lakes that made aimless wandering around the streets, especially at night, a pure joy.

We made numerous exploratory walks around the nearby Hoan Kiem Lake and the surrounding architecture which included the Hanoi Opera House. We also watched a show at the Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre, which I really enjoyed. Puppets on water controlled by puppeteers in the water themselves behind a screen with live cultural music. Finally we took a day trip from a tour operator across the road from our hotel, visiting the final resting place of Ho Chi Minh, the humble house he lived in on stilts (because he refused more opulent surroundings), the Tran Quoc Pagoda on the huge West Lake and St Joseph's Cathedral among other things.

Hanoi was a nice, relaxing, diverse and architecturally interesting place to finish our trip and we left with many fond memories and fun and interesting experiences of our time in Vietnam.